For jewelry



(No Model.)

LERUG SETTING FOR JEWELRY.

No. 397.434. Patented Feb. 5, 1889.

I- Fig.5

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LOUIS KRUG, OF NElV YORK, N. Y.

SETTING FOR JEWELRY.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 397,434, dated February 5, 1889. Application filed May 1, 1886. Serial No. 200,832. (No model.)

To all 111700112 it may concern:

Be it known that I, LOUIS KRUG, of New York, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented an Improved Setting for Pendant Jewelry; andI do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description thereof, reference being had to the accompanying drawings making part of this application.

My invention relates to a novel means or device for effecting the suspension of pond antjewelry srttings, which are designed and required to be mounted so as to have the freest possible movement about the point of suspension, for the well-knmvn purpose of permitting an easy and constant motion in order to show off the pendant jewel to the best advantage. Such settings for pendant jewels are used most extensively in the coin struction of car-rings, and previous to my i11- vention the means employed for the suspension of such settings has usually been two simple rings composed each of wire and engaged with each other after the fashion of the links of a chain, the uppermost one of said rings being secured to the wire hook or other device used for securing the ear-ring to the ear of the wearer, and the lowermost one being fastened to the scit'rg containing the pendant jewel or jewels. In this usually-employed sort of contrivance the frictional contact of the interlinked rings of the device permits only a comparatively-limited freedom of movement to the pemlant-sctting, and as those portions of the two rings which are in constant contact wear away by friction this wear, together with the clogging of the parts occasioned by the collection of dust between the rings, constantly increases the obstacle to that perfectly free and constant oscillation or trembling movement of the pendantsetting that is so desirable. A comparatively late improvement, however, upon this class of setting furnishes a somewhat better means for the suspension of the setting, and consists in a sort of pivotal connection between the two intertwined rings, a pivotal post or sup port, the lower end of which is pointed, projecting dowmva'rdly from the internal circumference of the uppermost portion of the lower ring, and being stepped at its lower end in a concavity or socket-like depression in the internal circumference of the lower portion of the uppermost ring, by which contrivance a greater freedom of movement of the pendantsctting is secured and. maintained than in the case of the old-fashioned simple chain-like device just above referred to. In this improved means or device for suspending such settings, known as the pivot-setting, there is not, however, that perfection of movement of the setting that is so desirable, and, furthermore, from the very nature of the mcchanica-l structure of the contrivance, it follows that not only will the lower pointed end of the pivotal post of the upper ring constant] y wear off and wcarinto the socket like receptacle in the lower ring, within which it rests, but said socket-like receptacle or depression affords ample opportunity for the collection of particles of dust and dirt, which necessarily more or less clog and impede the action of the combined parts.

I propose by my invention to overcome or correct all the defects common in a greater or less degree to all the means or devices heretofore known for effecting the suspension of pendantsettings, and to provide for the suspension of such settings a means or device which shall insure in them the greatest possible ease orfreedom of movement, and which shall maintain this quality of perfection of action during long-continued use of the setting.

' To this main end and object my invention consists, essentially, in a suspension device for pendant-settings in which the coupled parts or devices are formed or provided with knife or razor like edges, (preferably of some suitably-hard material to endure long wean) which come into direct contact with each other, all as will be hereinafter more fully explained.

To enable those skilled in the art to which my invention relates to fully understand and practice the same, I will now proceed to describe my improved suspension device and the mode in which I have so far practiced the making and using of the same, referring by letters to the accompanying drawings, which form a part of this specification, and in which I have illustrated my invention carried out in that form in which I have so far practically used it with perfect satisfaction.

I11 the drawings, Figure 1 represents in perspective view and on a somewhat enlarged scale a ladys ear-ring, the setting of the stone thereof being mounted or suspended according to my invention. Figs. 2, El, 4, 5, l3, 7, and are respectively detail views of the parts (or some of them) composing the suspending device or contrivance proper of the ear-ring, drawn on a somewhat enlarged scale, (for the purpose of making plainer the details of construction,) which :ligures will be more particularly explained in the course of the following description.

In the several figures of the drawings the same part will be found always designated by the same letter of reference.

Referring now particularly to Fig. l, A represents the common form of wire hook or clasp for eifccting the seeurement to the ear of an ear-ring, while Z) and c are respectively the upper and lower interlinked small rings that are secured or fastened, as usual, respectively, to the said device A, and to the setting (I, which carries the stone or jewel of the earring, said rings I) and 0 being, however, constructed and combined to operate according to my invention, as I will now more particularly explain. by reference to the other figures of the drawings.

As illustrated at Fig.1, each of the rings 1) and c of the suspension device or contrivance has its internal circumference made V-shaped, or reduced to a circular knife-edge, so that where the two rings come into contact the uppermost portion of this cireularknife-edge of the lower ring, 0, rests upon thelowermost point or portion of the similar circular knifeedge of the upper ring, I), and thus not only does the contact of the two rings occur at a more point, (so as to afford the very perfection of freedom of movement to thelowermost or suspended ring, 0, that carries the setting of the jewel,) but, the support or resting-place for the knife-edge of the lower ring being a similarly-curved knife-edge of the upper ring, there is no possible opportunity afforded, it will be seen, for the accumulation of any dust or any impediment upon the supporting por tion or device of the said upper ring. Of course this novel principle of construction of my improved suspension device may be carried out with more or lass perfection with two engagin rings or devices, either circular or ofother contour, composed of any suitable material, and with the knife-edged portions either extending entirely around the interior of one or both rings; or with such knifeedges formed or provided only at the vicinity of the point of contact between the upper (supporting) and the lower (suspended) ring or device; but in practice, so far, I have found it not only expedient; and desirable to have the knife-edges formed continuously within the two circular rings, but to also have these knife-edges composed of som e material harder than the gold of which the suspension-rings of pendant-j ewcl ry settings are generally composed.

In constructing the devices shown at Fig. l I have, so far, made these devices about in the following manner: 'laking the upper gold ring, I), which is to be secured to the wire hook A, or other device, I saw or cut a slitin that portion of its periphery which is to be lowermost in the finished coutrivance, about as shown at c of Fig. 9, (which is an edge view li' said ring 7),) and. having prepared a piece of line steel, about such as illustrated in perspective at Fig. 3, of the proper size and shape to [ill the slit or slot 6 thusmade in the ring I), I insert said steel plate f into the opening 6 of the ring in such manner as to have the peripheial portion of the plate f located slightly within the lower portion of the periphery or circumference of the ring I), as plainly indicated at Fig. 4, which is a side view of the parts I) and f after these parts have been thus put together, and the steel plate f secured in position (by soldering or otherwise) and the slight peripheral recess formed by the recession of the face of the plate 1" beyond the external surface of the lower part of the ring l) filled in with a gold backing, Said gold backing hides the face of the steel plate, and, besides serving to insure the retention in place of said plate, effects a perfect finish to the lower external portion of the ring I), all as most clearly seen at Fig. 5, which is a vertical central section of the parts shown in side view at Fig. 4. In like manner I combine with what is to be the uppermost portion of the lower ring, 0, a similar steel plate, f as clearly illustrated at Fig. (5, which is a side view of said ring and the steel plate combined therewith, with a portion of the gold broken away, however, in or der to better illustrate the relationship of the parts 0 and f Having thus combined with each of the gold rings the hard steel plate, I subject each of the said rings to the neces sary operations to reduce its internal or interior surface or portion to a perfect (circular) knife-edge, as clearly illustrated as to one of the rings at Fig. 7, which is a vertical central section of the upper ring, I), in its finished condition. To thus cut away the interior portion of the combined gold and steel ring to produce the shape illustrated at Fig, 7, I preferably employ a dome-shaped or hemispherical. n'iilling-tool, which is applied alternately to either side of the ring until the stock shall have been cut away to the proper extent to produce the result illustrated at said figure. I then preferably solder the ring I) to the wire or other ear-clasp A, and the ring 0 to the setting proper, and simultaneously with the heating process necessary to perform these operations I heat the knife-edge portions of the steel plates f and f to the proper ten'iperature to effect, by a subsequent sudden plunging of the soldered parts into a bath, the perfect hardening of the steel portions of the circular knife-edges of the two rings. Subsequently these ki1ife-edges are finished or brought to perfection by the use of suitable emery tools, so that the steel portions of the knife-edges of the two rings are practically razor-edged. The lowermost ring, 1*, with its setting, is subsequently inserted within. the uppermost ring, I), (in the usual manner of puttingtogether gold rings) when the suspension contrivance is complete, and will have the curved knife-edge of the steel plate f of the lowermost ring, c, arranged to rest and work upon the similar knife-edge ol the uppermost ring, I), as plainly illustrated at Fig. 8, which is a view of the coupled rings, with the lower one represented in elevation or side view, while the (transverscly-arrallged) upper one, Z), is shown in section for the purpose of better showing the point of contact between the two razor-like curved edges of the plates f and f I have contemplated, in carrying my invention into practice, the use of other forms than those shown of the knife-edge suspension devices, but have herein illustrated and described myinvention carried outin that form which the best now known to me, and in which I have so farsuccessfullypracticed my invention.

As before remarked, it will be obvious that in a suspension device for pendant-settings made according to my invention not only will there be a mere point of contact between the upper supporting and the lower or sus pended ring, so as to insure to the greatest possible extent a constant jarring motion or tremble to th e set tin gcontainin g the j ewel, but, by reason of the use of the two knife-edges there will be no possible opportunity for the collection of any dust or dirt to everimpede or interfere with the perfection of action of the suspension device. It will also be understood, of course, that in the event of any possible wear (in the course of long use) that might operate to dull either of the knife-edges at the locality of their contact with each other,

or in the event of any dulling or gapping of either of the edges at this point by some accident, a n ew and perfect point of contact may be created by slightly changing the relative position of the rings of the suspension device, so as to cause a different or new portion of either (or both) of said edges to come into contact.-

Having now so fully described my invention that those skilled in the art can readily make and use the same, and wishing it to be nmlerstood that all specific features of construction herein shown, but made the subject of any claim or claims in my other case, Serial No. 195,727, are herein disclaimed, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. A suspension device in which the parts capable of relative n'lovement are formed or provided, where they come into contact, with knife-edges, substantially as and for the purpose hereinbefore set forth.

2. In a suspension device in which the parts in contact are formed or provided with knifeedges, the formation of one or both of such edges in curves, substantially as hereinbeforc set forth.

In a suspension. device for jewelry, composed of two links or rings, the internal portions of which present angles or edges at the locality of contact between the two rings, the combination, with the gold or other metal of which such parts are usually manufactured, of plates of steel or other harder and more durable material than that composing said rings inserted at the localities of the bearing portions of the two'rings and reduced to knifeedges at their adjacent portions, all substantially as and for the purposes hereinbefore set forth.

In witness whereof I have hereunto set my hand this 29th day of April, 1886.

LOUIS KRUG.

In presence of- HERMAN HAUSEN, A. M. WILLIAMsON. 

